First in our ingredient cards: one ingredient, what it is, what it does, who it suits, and where it can go wrong.
The card
- What it is: niacinamide (also written nicotinamide) is vitamin B3 in its amide form. Water-soluble. Not the same as nicotinic acid, which is the form that causes the “niacin flush”.
- Main jobs: supports the skin barrier, calms redness, reduces excess oil, and helps fade dark spots.
- Typical use: 2–5% in serums and creams.
- Irritation: low.
- Acne / pore-clogging risk: very low. It usually helps acne, not causes it.
- Safety: one of the best-studied cosmetic actives there is.
What it actually does
Your outer skin layer is held together by ceramides and fatty acids. Niacinamide helps the skin build more of both, which is why it shows up in barrier-repair products. It also reduces how much oil the glands produce, calms some of the inflammation that makes acne red, and interferes with the transfer of pigment into skin cells — which is why it is used for melasma and post-acne dark marks.
In short: it is not a dramatic active. It is a quiet one that does several useful small things at once.
How much is enough
Most of the good evidence sits at 2 to 5%. Higher percentages are not stronger; they mostly add irritation. Products above 5% more often cause stinging, redness or flushing, especially on sensitive skin.
Who it suits
Oily and acne-prone skin, redness and blotchiness, dark spots and uneven tone, and most sensitive skin — it is usually tolerated better than acids or retinoids.
Who should be careful
A minority of people get temporary redness, warmth or stinging, more often at high concentrations or when layered with several other actives. Patch test on the jaw first if your skin reacts easily, and keep the rest of your routine boring while you test it.
Two myths
- “Never mix it with vitamin C.” This comes from old, outdated chemistry. Modern products are fine together. On very sensitive skin, using pure vitamin C and a high-strength niacinamide at the same moment may cause temporary flushing — spacing them is optional, not a rule.
- “Higher % works better.” No. Around 5% is a sensible ceiling for most people.
Where to find it
Look for “niacinamide” or “nicotinamide” on the label. If it sits near the bottom of the list, it is a token amount. If you have not used it before, start once a day and give it three to four weeks before judging it.
بالعربي — نياسيناميد
- شو هو: نياسيناميد (أو نيكوتيناميد) هو فيتامين B3 بشكله الأميدي. يذوب بالماء. مو نفس حمض النيكوتينيك اللي يسبّب “رفّة النياسين”.
- شو يسوّي: يقوّي حاجز الجلد، يهدّي الاحمرار، يقلّل الدهون الزايدة، ويساعد على تفتيح البقع الداكنة.
- الاستخدام المعتاد: 2–5% بالسيرومات والكريمات.
- التهيّج: منخفض.
- خطر انسداد المسام: منخفض جداً، وبالعكس غالباً يساعد حب الشباب.
- السلامة: واحد من أكثر المكوّنات دراسةً.
المهم: النسبة الأعلى ما تعني أقوى. الأدلة الحقيقية عند 2 إلى 5% بالمية. فوق 5% غالباً يزيد الحساسية والاحمرار بلا فايدة إضافية. إذا أول مرة تجرّبه، ابدأ مرة باليوم، وجرّبه ٣–٤ أسابيع قبل ما تحكم عليه.
وخرافة مشهورة: “ما ينخلط مع فيتامين سي”. هاي معلومة قديمة، عملياً ينخلطون عادي. بس إذا بشرتك حساسة جداً، خلّي بينهم وقت.
